
Wild pistachio (see left), evergreen oak, and strawberry trees are just a few of the unusual plants to be found at Ajloun Nature Reserve. Our hosts gave us a marvelous presentation on the reserve itself and it's educational programs, which are impressive! We took a walk around the reserve, stopping at some of the bungalos and tents that guests can reserve for their use. The nature reserve was established originally to protect some of the deer and ibex that were being hunted to extinction, but the evergreen oak trees provide the habitat for these and many other species of birds, mammals and reptiles that live there. After a fantastic lunch hosted at the reserve(memories of Islandwood!), we visited the Orjan Soap House. And yes, it's called that because they make all kinds of soap there. The RSCN (Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature) helps support several ecotourist sites and the soap house associated with the reserve is one of them. Part of the idea is to support local crafts and activities that can generate income that is not harmful to the environment. The soaps were varied, beautiful, and all natural in lovely packages. As we finished our

tour of the soap house and made our purchases, one of the young women approached with a tray of tea steeped with verbena. Such a delightful custom! More than once we've been offered coffee, tea or water, often tea though, upon entering an establishment. I find the custom so very charming! After the soap house, we traveled to the castle up on the hill from the town of Ajloun. This impressive fortress, originally built by the Romans, then taken over by the Saracens, then later besieged by the crusaders, was the place King Richard the Lion Hearted was incarcerated for so long during the crusades. I was walking on the same stones that Roman centurions, King Richard, and Saracen warriors all tread upon!

It was a pretty humbling thought! I still marvel at this land of deep contrast; so old and filled with history, and yet so young and vibrant too. Watching businessmen in suits on their cell phones strolling past centuries old monuments still pulls me up short. TGI Fridays in the mall and an hour away dark men in dishdash' and head scarves are selling mint tea on the roadside from tall, silver, urn-like pots. I'm sure to Jordanians it all seems very ordinary, but coming from the US, such a relatively young country, the contrasts are startling. I grow to love this beautiful country every day I spend here and I can truly say I will be heartbroken when it's time for me to say goodbye.
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