Agrigento

We took a bus in to the temple complex of Agrigento this morning. The Temple of Concord is the first temple you visit. Although it isn’t complete, you still get a pretty good idea of what this impressive structure probably looked like in its heyday. Built to honor a Greek goddess (there's some dispute over which one), this magnificent temple is not as impressive as the one that follows--the temple of Concordia. The temple of Concordia is truly impressive. Our guide, Luigi, tells me that this temple is intact and almost exactly as it was in the 400 BC. Minimal restoration has been done on this lovely structure. After the Greeks, Christians modified it to suit their needs; the walls are still visible in the interior. Later we visited the temple of Zeus, which was mostly in ruins. The really fascinating part of the ruins, however, was the reconstruction of a towering statue. Although this statue was laying down, archaelogists claim that they were contructed to stand upright between the columns, and they stood at least 20ft high! The archaelogical museum of Agrigento is impressive as well. Luigi explained that many of the vessels portrayed scenes from Greek mythology; mostly of the Gods falling in love. Very romantic!

Catania

As I sit in the café outside the amphitheatre (Greek and then Roman on top of it), a pair of men play guitar and mandolin, singing of love lost (Ciao, Bambina!). You really know you’re in Sicily, the land of the costa nostra, but also the land of romance! Across from me is an ancient square, flanked by churches that date back centuries. The square is reportedly where Elizabeth Taylor smashed a guitar over Richard Burton’s head in a fit of pique. Most of my students won’t know those names (ask your parents or even grandparents!). The churches have skulls and crossbones over the lintels and at the cornices. When I asked why the grim reminder, I was told that it was for just that purpose. Repent your sins! You too will die. Sort of a grim reminder of why we confess, but true none the less. As a Catholic, I feel right at home in this very Catholic of countries, though I must confess that I also felt at home in Jordan, though it is 96% Muslim. Perhaps it is because in Jordan, other religions are so widely accepted and respected. I must head back to the ship as we set off for another part of Sicily tonight. Ciao, bambinos!

Lipare

The eruption of Mt. Stromboli capped the evening of a marvelous day spent on the island of Lipare (emphasis on the Li, not the par!). We toured the island, known for its pumice and obsidian quarries, now shut down, and its marvelous capers, the bud of a beautiful climbing plant that’s pickled. After our bus tour, we ended in an archaeological museum filled with funerary urns. These large jug-like pots were filled with the deceased (whole, not, cremated!) and buried. There were small ones for children and larger ones for adults, all buried in great pits. They buried their treasures with them, just as the pharaohs did. Some of the most fascinating finds were small clay masks that were done as models for the larger ones the actors would use when producing a Greek tragedy or comedy. The masks clearly were of a comic or tragic nature and the archaeologists could even determine, in some cases, the play that the masks were intended for. After a lovely stroll around the town’s picturesque and winding streets, we ended back at the pier and reboarded to head for Catania, Sicily.

Ma’in Hot Springs

When they say hot, they mean hot! I had no idea that a hot spring could actually scald, but Ma’in Hot Springs is so hot I nearly blistered my feet on the rocks. As we approached the hot springs in the sweltering heat, I questioned our sanity! Why on earth were we going to a hot springs to soak in boiling hot water on an already hot day? But after soaking in the sulfurous waters, and standing under the hot, hot, waterfall, I sat on the rocks in the shade and I understood why humans have been doing this at Ma’in for centuries. For one thing, you are surprisingly cooled off when you get out because the breeze cools your wet skin. Of course, it may just be that it seems a lot cooler after the scorching heat of the water! Aside from feeling cooler after soaking in the springs, your muscles feel completely relaxed and like jelly. As I climbed up to the grotto behind the waterfall, and lowered myself in to the hottest pool yet with a yelp, I was reminded forcibly of the saying, “It hurts so bad it feels good”. That’s sort of Ma’in Springs in nut shell! That night we went to our final dinner at a really fabulous restaurant. There was a fellow outside pounding coffee beans in typical Bedouin fashion and inside we were entertained by a really talented oud player. An oud is a bit like a guitar and can be quite lovely, with inlaid wood and camel bone. The musician was very talented and played many traditional Jordanian songs. I was saddened to say goodbye to everyone, but excited to start the next leg of my journeys—to the Mediterranean.

Irbid

Today's adventures began in Irbid, a large city in northern Jordan that feels like a village. We visited Mustafa's school, Wasfi al tall. Munther Al Rshedat is the principal, and you could tell he was excedingly proud of his school! This school is a vocational school, which means students study things like electronics, TV and radio maintenance, automotive mechanics, etc. They also take social studies, math, religion and so on. We visited a "religion" class for lack of a better descriptor. They were actually studying the body as it relates to the soul using exerps from the Quar'an! When I asked the students (high school) if they had any questions for me, they asked me what I thought of Islam. I told them that I was impressed with Islam's acceptance of all faiths and its assertion that all people are loved by Allah. It just reinforced the idea that wars and terrorism are started by extremists and perpetuated by misguided politicians who are more concerned about maintaining power and global influence than they are by saving lives. The average person here just wants to raise their families in peace, practice their religion, and live happily.

Ma'an Secondary School for Girls

As you can see by our smiling faces, we had a wonderful time in Ma'an today, Rabia's home town. Ma'an is located in the South of Jordan, about an hour from Aqaba. Rabia's school, the Ma'an Secondary School for Girls, hosted us, and we had an engaging time visiting classrooms, speaking with students and visiting with the school's very enlightened and progressive headmistress. Mrs. Salfa Abu Tayeh, the headmistress, is a bedoin woman of great character and strength. She believes strongly in womens rights and issues, and is an activist in this area. You can see her dedication and love of her students and teachers as she speaks. Although she speaks English well, she sometimes elected to speak Arabic and have Rabia translate. The translation was almost unnecessary, though. Her great passion for education shown in her animated face. Later that afternoon we joined Rabia's family for a traditional meal of mansef; typically goat or lamb served over rice with a rich yogurt based sauce and pine nuts. Delicious!

A Visit with Manal's Family and Maysoun's Mother

This is Manal and her lovely family. Manal is the one on the couch in the lovely traditional dishdashe. To her right is her husband and her 5 beautiful children are on either side and in front. Manal and her friends and family welcomed us all in to her home and prepared a delicious and traditional Jordanian feast including mansef, a rice and lamb or goat dish that is absolutely delicious. Manal really outdid herself! Hummus, tabouleh, mansef, stuffed grape leaves and stuffed zuchinni, to name just a few of the dishes. After, we enjoyed tea and coffee with another tradition in Jordan; kanafe, which is a cheese desert with a sweet breaded topping. We all enjoyed ourselves immensely, and as usual ate far more than was actually wise! I was grateful that we spent an hour or so after walking along the nearby shops, letting the food that I'd indulged in so extravagantly settle. As we walked, Maysoun explained that her mother lived nearby, and would like to have us come visit for fresh lemon drink. Maysoun's mother is just as sweet and warm as Maysoun herself. What a delightful person! I fell in love with her immediately and it is evident that she and Maysoun are very close. The Jordanian version of lemonade was brought out on a tray, served in small, delicate looking glasses. Jordanians are big on fresh fruit drinks. You can buy them almost anywhere and watch as they take the fruit, whip it up in a blender, and pour it in to a glass. Mango is a big favorite everywhere, but my personal favorites are the mango/strawberry mixture and the lemon. They often add just a touch of mint to the lemon, and it's never very sweet, but it's so delicious! The evening was lovely and cool, and as we sat outside with the scent of the jasmine perfuming the air, sipping our lemon drinks and eating ice cream, I couldn't help thinking that I wouldn't want to be anywhere else right at that moment. Again, I am reminded of how lucky I am to be experiencing all this. Truly, I've made friends I will never forget and will always want to stay connected with. I only hope to return very soon to visit with all of them again.

Aqaba

I've never snorkled in Coral Reefs as beautiful as those in Aqaba. We collapsed in our hotels and woke to one of the hottest days we've experienced in Jordan. The temps were well above 35 C by 9am, so you knew it'd be a scorcher. We all decided to find a glass bottom boat and spend the morning on the water, but we really lucked out when a young man approached us and asked if we wanted a boat. He had a friend, he said, and for 50 JD he would take us all out for 2 hours. Well, it turns out his friend is a snorkling fan and knew right where all the great snorkling was. His boat, like all the others pulled up on shore, is a flat bottomed boat with a glass window in the bottom. Bench seats with cushions range along either side, and the whole is covered by a tassled bedecked canopy, necessary in the scorching sun. I've never experienced such fantastic snorkling or seen such incredible fish in my life. It was so beautiful. I even saw two lion fish, which I've never seen outside an aquarium. As he took us out, he hugged the coast line, slowly cruising over coral reefs so close to the surface that you could easily see the fish, even if you didn't want to get in the water. Unlike the Dead Sea, though the water was salt, it wasn't excessively salty and it was a lovely temperature; refreshing, not bathwater hot! He dropped anchor and snorkled with us, another indicator to me of a good guide. We stayed sensibly close to the boat, but there were no real restrictions about where to snorkle, you just used your own good sense and he trusted that you knew what you were doing. Finally I dragged myself back in to the boat; our time was running out. We made it back in the alloted time, and tipped our captain handsomely for a fantastic morning of diving. After a shower at the hotel, we headed home to King's Academy. I thought our day was at an end, but the finale was yet to come. Our contact person here, who made arrangements for our trips to Petra, Wadi Rum and Aqaba, invited us to his olive farm outside of Madaba. Basil, and his wife Viola, are travel agents first, and farmers second, but you would never know that based on the quality of their oil and other produce! We stopped at his beautiful villa, set in the hills outside of Madaba, and ate fresh figs and grapes as we watched the sun set from his charming grape covered arbor. Viola served us tea and delightful homemade cookies and sweets. We were all prepared to move in and take up permanent residence! No one needed dinner after that, and we were all tired, so we headed to our dorm rooms and I, for one, slept dreamlessly!

Wadi Rum

After a morning in Petra, we checked out of our hotel and headed for Wadi Rum, a vast desert in the Southern part of Jordan. The geology of Wadi Rum is spectacular, the vistas breathtaking. We hired a jeep and driver and then headed out for a tour of the red sand and beautiful rock formations. Wadi Rum surprises you, because there are hidden springs where water resides, giving life saving water to the plants and animals that live there. Bedoins still roam the area with flocks, many of them making a living off toursism, as in Petra, but some still living a semi nomadic life. Again, I'm struck by the contrasts, the old and the new ways of life. Our evening ended with a dinner and party out in the middle of the desert. It was quite the experience! Called Jaba Rum, it's designed for tourists, but it was none-the-less a delightful experience. We danced and drank gallons of water after the parching day, and ate a delicious dinner prepared by roasing the meats under ground in the traditional manner, called zurb. It's quite the production and we all watched as the chef uncovered the big round cylinders and lifted out the steaming meat. Long days of walking and hiking, followed by big meals, makes me very appreciative of our wonderful driver, Eyad. We all climbed back on the bus after sunset and headed to Aqaba, Jordan's only sea port.

The Rose City

The treasury is just the beginning of an amazing complex of ruins, the 8th wonder of the world, called Petra. We spent a wondrous afternoon upon our arrival exploring the beauty of Petra. The Treasury is the first huge monument that you arrive upon, but prior to the Treasury is a long narrow canyon made famous by the Indianna Jones movie, called the siq. With the afternoon light angling down it took your breath away. Petra is large, much larger than I had imagined, and of course, since it's a major tourist destination, there are many, many vendors of all types. Some people set up shop high in the mountains, more than an hour climb up, to sell their jewelry, coins, and handicrafts. Others sell you a ride; it's a very, very long walk! The following morning I chose to walk, since I like walking, all the way up to the monastery. I went fairly early, to avoid the heat of the day, and I think I shocked (and dissappointed) several people trying to sell me a ride on a donkey. Frankly, mounting those winding steps on a donkey seemed much less safe to me than using my own two feet! No doubt they're sure footed enough, though. I watched several coming down, and though the riders looked a bit uncertain, the donkeys never put a foot wrong and their drivers kept up a constant stream of chatter. I ride horses at home, so riding a horse or donkey held no real appeal for me, but camels? Now there was something I had to try! So on the first afternoon in Petra, I decided to try a camel for a the ride back. I was still on the way in, just past the Treasury, when a young man riding a camel and leading another began his bid to get my attention. I laughed and said no thank you, I'd get a camel on the way out, but could I pet his camel? He said fine, that she was a nice camel, didn't spit, and wouldn't bite. Her name was Daisy and I was completely taken with her! When I offered her some water, she took the bottle in her lips and completely upended it! We drew quite a crowd as I let Daisy "kiss" me on the cheek and drink my water, so later when I decided to ride back, I looked for Daisy, found her, and rode her back to the treasury. They're remarkably comfortable. We jogged along, discussing Daisy's diet (Pizza and Diet Pop--she needs to watch her weight!) and soon arrived back at the Treasury. My experience was complete; I'd had my camel ride!

Amman's King Hussein Park

You get the impression that the royalty of Jordan are car fanciers after visiting the car museum in King Hussein Park. The museum really chronicals the royal families love of the automobile (and motorcycle). It's interesting to see all the different cars that have been used over the years by the royal family of Jordan. King Hussein was quite the driver and even raced cars as a young man. His son, His Majesty King Abdulla II loves motorcycles and was even touring in Oregon on his Harley Davidson as recently as last month, when we were all at the UW together! The car above was used by His Majesty and the Queen when they were married, and has had light use since. After an enjoyable visit to the Children's Museum, next door to the car museum, we enjoyed Arabic coffee al fresco. Have to find out what the phrase is in Arabic! The picture below is of two of our Jordanian friends; Sa'na on the left and Rabia on the right. The coffee was delicious and the company just right!

Official Business

We've been making official visits for the last vew days; the Queen Rania Award's office, where we metthe Executive Director, Lubna Touqan, and the Mayor's office, where we visited with Mayor Omar Maani, the mayor of Amman. I enjoyed our conversation with Lubna very much indeed. Teachers face many of the same challenges in Jordan; low pay, lack of respect, and low numbers of qualified students entering the field. We discussed ways we have felt validated as professionals and teachers in the US, and ways to get the "good news" out about all the dedicated and hard working people who care deeply about kids and spend their lives dedicated to the education of our youth. The following day we met the mayor of Amman. Although he was very busy, and couldn't spend long with us, you left with the impression that he is hard working, dedicated, and loves Amman very much indeed. Amman has experienced intense growth in the last few years, and Amman's mayor has wisely hired consultants to help construct a strategic plan for the city so that growth will be regulated and contained, rather than popping up like mushrooms wherever developers please. He left us with lovely gifts of books; one poetry and one coffee table picture book, as well as a feild guide. Now I'm trying to figure out how to get it all home without going over the weight limit! As we were waiting for our bus to visit with Lubna on Monday, I took this video of a downtown mosque at noon. In the back ground you can
hear the call to prayer, a hauntingly lovely sound broadcast 5 times a day, and always by an actual person, never recorded. The fountain outside is for the faithful to wash heads, hands and feet before entering the mosque to pray.

Aljoun Nature Reserve and Castle

Wild pistachio (see left), evergreen oak, and strawberry trees are just a few of the unusual plants to be found at Ajloun Nature Reserve. Our hosts gave us a marvelous presentation on the reserve itself and it's educational programs, which are impressive! We took a walk around the reserve, stopping at some of the bungalos and tents that guests can reserve for their use. The nature reserve was established originally to protect some of the deer and ibex that were being hunted to extinction, but the evergreen oak trees provide the habitat for these and many other species of birds, mammals and reptiles that live there. After a fantastic lunch hosted at the reserve(memories of Islandwood!), we visited the Orjan Soap House. And yes, it's called that because they make all kinds of soap there. The RSCN (Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature) helps support several ecotourist sites and the soap house associated with the reserve is one of them. Part of the idea is to support local crafts and activities that can generate income that is not harmful to the environment. The soaps were varied, beautiful, and all natural in lovely packages. As we finished our tour of the soap house and made our purchases, one of the young women approached with a tray of tea steeped with verbena. Such a delightful custom! More than once we've been offered coffee, tea or water, often tea though, upon entering an establishment. I find the custom so very charming! After the soap house, we traveled to the castle up on the hill from the town of Ajloun. This impressive fortress, originally built by the Romans, then taken over by the Saracens, then later besieged by the crusaders, was the place King Richard the Lion Hearted was incarcerated for so long during the crusades. I was walking on the same stones that Roman centurions, King Richard, and Saracen warriors all tread upon! It was a pretty humbling thought! I still marvel at this land of deep contrast; so old and filled with history, and yet so young and vibrant too. Watching businessmen in suits on their cell phones strolling past centuries old monuments still pulls me up short. TGI Fridays in the mall and an hour away dark men in dishdash' and head scarves are selling mint tea on the roadside from tall, silver, urn-like pots. I'm sure to Jordanians it all seems very ordinary, but coming from the US, such a relatively young country, the contrasts are startling. I grow to love this beautiful country every day I spend here and I can truly say I will be heartbroken when it's time for me to say goodbye.

The Ancient City of Jerash

The ancient Roman ruins of Jerash are truly an impressive site. We spent a morning wandering among centuries old ruins, imagining ourselves enjoying watching a chariot race in the Hippodrome or stolling down the column lined Cardo, (read avenue) pictured to the left. Passing through Hadrian's arch, in honor of a visit by the Emporer Hadrian in 129-130, you pass by the Hippodrome, where contests such as horse racing, athletics, and other entertainments occurred. Proceding onward, you find the Forum, a large oval space surrounded by beautiful ionic columns. It is thought that this was a gathering place for commerce and perhaps also social, political and religious gatherings. The Temple of Zeus Olympus is located on the southern hill of Jerash, and you walk down the cardo from the Forum to get there. It's a beautiful structure, with a panoramic view of the new city of Jarash in the distance. From the Temple of Zeus, we walked to the North Theatre, making a side trip to the smaller Southern Theatre along the way. It's easy to get lost among the old ruins, but everywhere you look are students and archaeologists at work, so there's always someone to steer you in the right direction. In the North Theatre we were treated to an unusual sight: bagpipes! There was a band with two pipers and two drummers playing and they immediately struck up Yankee Doodle Dandee when they found out we were from the U.S.! We had spent most of the morning in Jerash. As we were leaving, flocks of tourists were entering the ruins and all I could think of was how hot they would be. I was grateful that we had made our tour of the ruins in the morning before the real heat of the day. Even so, it was hot and dry inside the Roman ruins, and we welcomed the chance to sit down in a shady restaurant just outside and enjoy a cool fruit juice and a meal.

The Jordan River

Today's journey took us to the Jordan river, at the site where Jesus was reportedly baptized. Excavation of the site has been undertaken, and the Franciscan's are responsible for funding and supporting the project. Our tour guide was a newly married archaelogist who was very knowledgeable and told engaging stories, like the one about when he first began excavation on a cave that most likely housed monks who lived at the site. As he carefully widened the hole, a swarm of bats exited, startling him mightily! He said it took some time to catch his breath and return to the cave excavation! The Jordan river borders Palestine, of course, and it was startling to see how small the river was. I could almost have leapt across it. Instead, I sat and bathed my feet, just as many people over the centuries have done, perhaps at this very spot. Just above the place we were standing in the photo was the Palestinian flag and the Hebron flag. There was a great deal of development at that site as well. Several churches have sprung up. This beautiful painting was from the ceiling of a Greek Orthodox church we visited on our way back from the river. Following our tour of the site of Jesus' baptism, we went to Mount Nebo, the site where Moses died and was buried. He also said to have looked out (as did I!) on the Promised Land from this very spot on the heights of Mt. Nebo. The view was truly breathtaking, especially when you look around at the barren, hot, rocky terrain that Moses and his people wandered in for 40 years. The Promised Land (ie:Jordan valley) must have truly been a sight! It was hazy today, so the view wasn't as spectacular as I'd hoped, but it was impressive nonetheless. I love the beautiful mosaics we saw everywhere at the excavation site. As we left Mt. Nebo, we stopped along the way to shop for mosaics at a small shop that sells wares specifically made by the handicapped. A man in a wheel chair explained to me the mosaic he had made, a beautiful rendition of the tree of life, with symbols of life and death at it's feet--life represented by graceful gazelles and death represented by a lion killing a gazelle. All part of the circle of life. Very poetic, actually. The mosaics are made traditionally by painting a picture on a muslin like cloth, stretched tight. The pieces of stone, all local, are cut and then glued in place with a flour paste. When it is finished, the whole thing is then framed and a grout like material spread over the top. You've been looking at the back this whole time! When you flip it over, the muslin cloth is peeled away with boiling water which dissolves the flour paste. Additional grout and cleaning is done and there you have it! The more modern version is less labor intensive, and less lovely, I think, so I purchased a small gift of the more traditional type of mosaic for my school's new chapel. When we arrived back at the dorms, we were surprised by two very friendly cats that decided to join us for part of the evening. They eventually decided to take their leave, but not before inspecting every open dorm room! It was a nice reminder of my kitties at home!

Jordan Education Initiative

Today we had the good fortune to be hosted by the Jordan Education Initiative. The meeting and discussion, held after a shopping trip to Mecca Mall and lunch, was extremely interesting and engaging. After a large lunch, I always find my lids drooping, but not today! Rana Madani, the Head of Education Research and Innovation, was a delightful speaker and very obviously a gifted teacher. The JEI is funded in part by local and global businesses as well as public and private dollars. It's focus is to foster this partnership between business and education using information communication technology. They have begun this by identifying 100 "Discovery Schools" where new technology and teaching practices can be assessed in action. If it's deemed an appropriate and useful tool or procedure, it would then be adopted by all the schools of Jordan (theoretically). We discussed sustainability and the idea of teacher trainers. We discussed how these materials and workshops that are being distributed and offered to Discovery Schools could be spread out to include more of Jordan (currently all DS's are located near Amman). Part of the reason I find this work so exciting is that they are doing studies at these special schools to determine the effects of these new technologies and strategies on student learning. This information will be available, as soon as it becomes public domain, on their website. There are dozens of new gadgets, teaching strategies, gizmos, and ideas about how to effect student learning, but there really isn't a great body of knowledge that addresses whether a particular piece of technology or learning strategy actually affects student's outcomes. Maybe with further collaboration some truly innovative approaches to improving student learning, we can make some headway on things like the racial and gender gaps that still exist today in student achievement. Just as an aside, the plaque I'm holding is a verse from the Holy Qua'aran, which when translated, touched my heart. It goes:
Allah! None has the right to be worshipped but He, the Ever Living, the One who sustains and protects all that exists. Neither slumber nor sleep overtakes Him. To Him belongs whatever is on the earth. Who is he that can intercede with Him except with His permission? He knows what happens to His Creatures in this world, and what will happen to them in the hereafter. And they will never compass anything of His Knowledge except that which He wills. His Kurst (footstool) extends oer the heavens and the earth, and He feels no fatigue in guarding and preserving them. And He is the Most High, the Most Great.

From the Ayat-ul-Kursi of the Holy Qua'aran.

Dead Sea

Suposedly, Dead Sea mud is good for anything that ails you, so when we visited the Dead Sea the other day, naturally I had to slather up! Floating in the Dead Sea is another experience all together. Located at the lowest elevation on our planet, and just opposite Palestine (you can see it in the distance), the climate is typically hot. The air is filled with a fine mist from the evaporating sea that leaves a slightly salty, tangy taste on the tongue. You don't want to open your eyes or put your face in the water, though, as Mustafa found out much to his chagrin! And if you happen to have a cut or have just shaved, watch out! Ouch, it stings! Since the sea is so salty, you bob like a cork. Swimming in it is a bit like trying to swim with a life vest on. It's also quite warm, so most people don't feel much like swimming in it. All sorts of visitors come to the Dead Sea for its healing water, minerals, and mud bathes. I collected some interesting "stones", which weren't stones at all, but actually chunks of salt deposited due to the supersaturated nature of the sea. I'm on the left in this picture in about 10 feet of water. Becky, on the right, is struggling to balance with her feet pointing down. She's not standing on anything, yet her shoulders are almost fully out of the water. Wild! That evening, after a long afternoon spent at the Dead Sea, we enjoyed the sunset as we headed for home. I was becoming sick at this point, which we were all expecting to happen some time during our stay. I'm just grateful it hasn't lasted too long. At the rate I've been devouring local cuisine, it's just as well that I've had a day or two without food! I awoke the following morning early, truly miserable, but determined not to miss out on
of the days events. Pepto bismol is your friend! Anyway, I ended up spending a great deal of time on the bus sleeping in the back, unfortunately. We were visiting the University of Jordan, a beautiful and older university in cental Amman. Several of my Jordanian collegues are graduates of this school and proudly helped show us around. The museum housed on campus is lovely, with a park-like courtyard with centruries old antiquities on display. Although I made it through the morning's program, I decided to stay at the bus that afternoon. The assitant director of publicity for the school was escorting us around, and when he discovered I was ill, was deeply concerned. He fist offered to take me to a clinic, but I assured him it was just traveler's malaise and all I needed was rest. Then he offered to drive me back himself to King's Academy in his own car! A nearly hour drive one way! I am continually stunned at the generosity and kindness of the Jordanian people, and I was deeply touched at his concern. When we were due to leave at around 2pm, he brought me a bag with cold water and juice. So very kind! After lunch (I opted out!), we visited Ambassador Karim Kawar. I was perking up by then, and a little Turkish coffee set me to rights. We had a delightful chat with him, focusing on how to spread what we have accomplished so far to a wider audience. With the advent of UTube and other forms of instant media, the task is much simplified. Our discussion really led all of us to think further about ways to turn the ripple effect into waves (the Ambassador's analogy, which I liked very much!). What we're doing and experiencing has the potential to change lives in a very positive way. Now we need to ensure that this happens, and knowing this group, it certainly will!

Hashemite University

Hashemite University, in Zarqa, is a relatively new University in Jordan, built in 1995. We met with the Dean of the school of Education as well as the President of the University itself. My favorite part of the visit, however, was the informal meetings with students. They were all so warm and welcoming, often waving and saying "Hello, welcome to Jordan!" Of, course, everyone was curious about these strange foreigners, but it struck me as unusual and charming that these young people were so willing to come up to complete strangers and with great enthusiasm welcome us and tell us about themselves. I can't imagine American students at the University of Washington doing that! To be fair, there is such a diversity of people at any large University in America that our Jordanian friends never stood out or looked unusual. Still, the warm hospitality of these young people can't help but inspire and bring hope for a more peaceful and welcoming world in the future. After a lovely morning at the University, we visited a Souk in Zarqa. A Souk is really just a collection of shops crowded together on several adjoining streets. The combination of sights, smells, and sounds are what make a Souk a unique and exciting experience. I purchased several items, my Jordanian friends helping me haggle for the purchases and I'm quite pleased with my finds! In particular, I like the long, loose fitting robes that women wear, often very elaborately embroidered. Cindy, Becky and I purchased a cheaper variety, more for daily wear, but some of them can be quite exotic; hand stitched with beads and sequins in gorgeious patterns. I noticed many women in traditional garb, with heads covered in a variety of very stylish ways, but some women cover themselves entirely except for the eyes, which are the only part that is exposed. These women often paint their eyes with a combination of kohl and ink, traditionally kept in a small, brass pot. The young lady below talked with me at some length at Hashemite University. She graciously agreed to let me photograph her lovely eyes. The Islamic tradition holds that the eyes are the window to the soul, and looking at her, you have to believe it!

Amman Sightseeing

Amman is an amazing city; very cosmopolitan and yet ancient, with old markets and beautiful ruins. This ancient Roman amphitheatre still houses concerts. At one time, it sat over 5000 people for events. Climbing to the top took my breathe away, not least because I'm terrified of heights. You can see how small the people below me are; the steps are very worn and steep. I'm standing just three steps below the top level! As I climbed the last few steps, three boys congradulated me. They were sitting at the top and had watched my progress with some amusement, I think! Their English was good, so I asked what year were they in school. The middle one stated proudly that he'd just finished high school. All over Amman, fireworks have been going off to signal the end of the school year and the receipt of the end-of-year exam scores. So these young men were celebrating their passing marks by climbing to the top of the amphitheatre. When I asked to take their picture, they were all too eager to pose for me! It struck me that young men are quite alike world wide; hopeful of the future and eager to start the adventure of living as an adult. They could have been students from my hometown, except that instead of hanging out at the mall, they were hanging out at the top of a Roman amphitheatre! Prior to lunch with our Jordanian counterparts, we visited the temple of Hercules atop the Citadel in the oldest part of Amman. The temple of Hercules, built between 162-166 AD, is said to be where Hercules tried to hold up the temple through shear brute strength. It is thought that these pillars were part of the entryway, and that the temple was never actually finished, since there are not other pillars of this size on the site. The citadel, including this fantastic excavation, sits atop the oldest part of Amman. The Byzantine church, build by the Umayyad dynasty in 326AD, is a stunning piece of architechture. It is amazing to me that we were allowed to roam freely among the stones and walls, overlooking the city of Amman, and imagining what it might have been like to live and worship here, all those years ago. My breathe is still taken away when I hear the call to prayer, and touch these old stones, tracing the fossil clams and other sea life embedded in them. You wonder if the people who built these beautiful structures ever marveled that fossilized sea life could be found in stones quarried so far from the ocean. How in the world did these people manage this type of architechture with so little in the way of equipment or tools? Before tackling the citadel, we visited the King's Mosque in downtown Amman. Women are not usually allowed in to the main part of the mosque, but if it is not the time of prayers, you may visit as a tourist. Of, course, you must remove your shoes and women must cover themselves from head to foot; hence the robe I'm wearing in the picture. The mosque can hold up to 3000 men at a time to pray, and it is required that all muslim men pray at mosque if possible. If they cannot get away from their jobs to make it to the mosque, they may pray at work, but there are so many mosques, big and small, that it isn't too much trouble to find a mosque close by. There is a pulpit like structure where the Immam delivers the lesson of the day, but the prayers are all done facing Mecca, and the picture below depicts the alcove facing East where the prayers are said. I'll finish on a more whimisical and personal note. I can't believe that here in Amman I can still find a McDonalds (yuck!). I can't believe anyone actually eats there, after having tasted the local food. Perhaps its just the novelty? In any case, it just struck me as amusing so I took a picture of the sign!